For over a year the four of us (Brain Frankle, Glen Van Peski, Henry Shires and I) talked about doing a hike together. Busy schedules and other life conflicts always seemed to intervene. Finally after much discussion, a date was set, last week of September, then a location agreed upon, the Tahoe Rim Trail. At some point we even named the hike the Ultralight Brain Trust hike. I’m not sure who came up with that one.
We even had grandiose plans of filming the hike for posterity, or was swapping gear and having our customers decide which items of our competitor’s collection we’d carry. Alas in the end we settled on the simplest approach, and simply collected our kits and assembled at Henry’s to work out the final details.
After driving from Nevada City to Tahoe, dropping of cars and procuring the last of the needed supplies, we set off mid morning from Echo Lake Summit for our hike around Lake Tahoe.
In our rush to escape into the wilderness, we failed to do the pack weigh in. Though it was pretty clear that all in this group were super ultralight or WickedLite ( as is my want to redefine the unwieldy term of super ultralight) hikers. Or to put it another way our packs had a base weight of 5 to 6 pounds. The only exception being Henry, and that was due in in large part to his last minute substitution of a more traditional Kelty pack. It's probably just well, he hikes so powerfully that by the end we almost resorted to loading his pack with rocks to slow him down.
The plan was to hike the 165 mile loop around the lake over a span of 8 days. Resulting in a day average of about 20 miles. This is a pretty stiff pace for most traditional backpackers but certainly not unusual for your average ultralight hiker. Assuming of course that you're in reasonable shape.
We had a long beautiful climb through pines growing precariously out of Granite boulders. We finally topped out at 9500 feet before descending into the grassy Truckee Valley. Along the decent we were treated with spectacular views of the open meadows south of Lake Tahoe.
Despite having hiked more trail miles this summer than the rest of the gang, I knew I'd probably be at a disadvantage in keeping up. I tried playing the sympathy card with my recent ascension to status of Grandpa, but that only garners one so much leeway with these guys.
By the time we'd covered the 17.5 miles to our nightly camp, I was more than bushed. It was enough for me to setup my shelter and crawl in for an evening of slumber. Lucky for me, my 7 ounce Cuben Fiber Wild Oasis was the easiest shelter to erect.
One of the traits shared by long distant hikers and ultralight hikers, is the lack of time spent in camp, especially in the morning. As soon as it's light enough to travel we're drawn down the trail or perhaps it's just that walking is the only way we can ward off the morning chill having carried too little gear. I suspect the former as I'm inclined to start hiking by 6 am no matter the conditions.
Despite Henry claims that better weather was on the way, the clouds had merely grown dense over night. Fortunately I ate my bowl of cereal in the half light of morning while waiting for the everyone else to stir. It didn't look like the weather would allow for a nice sunny break we could stop and lay out on some sunny rocks like a band of roving lizards soaking up the morning sun. Any warmth today would be generated by the simple act of walking.
After breaking camp, we started the 2000 foot climb up to the top of the ridge. Before long a light rain began to fall and as we climbed it turned into snow. So much of a nice easy warm end of summer hike!
By the time we stopped for a quick break and map check at the top, I was cold and wet. Even after 2 applications of a spray on silicone water repellant, my light nylon wind shell had done little to shed the rain. Even if it were up to the task, it would have mattered little to the final outcome. I was wet more from the exertion of the climb than the falling rain.
Over the years, I've found that I can continue hiking, even if moderately cold and wet. As long as I can maintain enough of a pace to keep my core temperature high. The difficulties with a group hiking is that not all of us hike at the same pace. So if group needs to slow down to stay together, the faster hikers aren't going to be generating enough heat to stay warm. In our case, I was the weakest link.
By now, we'd covered 4 miles with another 19 miles and lots of ups and downs to go before camp tonight. I decided to head back down to the road and allow the rest of the group continue on. I'd hitch back to my van and we'd meet at the next trail head.
It wasn't an easy decision and no one wanted to break up the group. But without me those guys could fly. And fly they did.
Later that afternoon we all met at Kingsbury Summit. I was quite surprised how quickly they'd coved the distance. Of course with the cold and snow there was little incentive to stop and linger around.
Being that the TRT travels a few miles on paved roads in this section. We found a great little pizza place right along the trail. Great quanitities of pizza was consumed with Henry winning the prize having ordered the largest size pizza on the menu. It was dark, cold and a thin layer of snow covered the ground when we bedded down for the night. Since I still had the van, I had the best and warmest accommodations. Of course it hardly qualifies as ultralight.
For the next day and a half, I played van support and meet them at different road crossings. The van provided a nice haven to escape the wind and cold while preparing for the next section. Also the TRT on the Eastern side of Lake Tahoe is quite dry with few dependable water sources. So while they were hiking, I'd place a few caches that we could use for later in the hike.
A Tale of Backcountry Product Design and Testing by Experts
So what do four gear designers talk about when they've got hours to spend hiking together? Did we discuss the ins and outs of various UL pack designs? No. Dwell on the details of our various dream tents made from exotic fabrics yet to be produced? No. The latest trends in ultralight, super ultralight or wickedlite gear? No.
In fact hours we're spent in the discussing the all the minute details of the Crotch Pot.Yes, you read that right Crotch Pot. Now in case your not aware of this new trend in UL cookery, let me fill you in.
Safe to say that anyone reading this blog has already made the transition to one of several ultralight methods of cooking food. Whether it's alcohol or solid fuel tabs. Sure it's light but there's still the need to carry a bunch of fuel, a pot to boil water, maybe a pot cozy and a few extra goodies. How about eliminating all of that with the one and only Crotch Pot. Simply mix your favorite dehydrated meal with cold water in your Crotch Pot, place it in it's convenient holder located in your pants and get to hiking.
After 2 or 3 hours of vigorous walking, your meal is nicely re hydrated and warmed to a pleasant mouth watering, body temperature. No more burning your lips on hot food. No more pot holders or grips. No more spilling your hot food all over your gear when you mistakenly pick up a hot pot. Forget soggy matches, wet lighters and flint that fails to spark. Out of alcohol or heat tabs? Who cares? The Crotch Pot is light, safe, sanitary and fool proof.
Following the usual long technical discussions about product details, there always comes the point when the rubber meets the road. Or in this case product testing. I should stop here and point out that act of hiking and making protypes are not compatible activities. In fact the mere act of attempt to stay on trail while laughing over the more nuance details is hard enough.
Plus in this environment we designers lack the various design and implementation accoutrements normally available back in our offices. Still, on the trail one must be creative and improvise. Fearless of any impending lose of dignity in failure, Glen took up the mantle of product testing.
Of course in order to do product testing, one must first have a product. Lacking a formal product specification it was determined that your typical run of the mill ziploc bag would do in a pinch. It did in fact meet most of our outlined criteria, save for one small problem. That being the inability to actually secure it into place.
So during one of our lunch breaks, Glen pulled out one his previously dehydrated dinners. Which was already conveniently contained in the afore mentioned ziploc. To which he added just enough water to re hydrate to taste. Excess air was carefully disgorged from said ziploc. Just knowing the prototype Crotch Pot was in place and working was bad enough. Listening to it slosh back and forth as we strode the trail would be, well frankly one step too far.
With the lip of the ziploc carefully folded over the top of his trousers, Glen tossed on his light pack and strode confidently up the trail. Though exactly why he should maintain an air of such confidence was certainly lost on the rest of the said troupe.
Now this last bit of news comes I dare say via the form of hearsay. Though I must admit it is from two highly honest and impeccable sources. Personally I was still on van duty so was unable to bare witness to the actual events.
Within a quarter mile of the start of the test or less than 5 minutes into the 2 hour test, it became clear that Glen's test plan was degenerating rapidly. It appears that the combined weight of food, water and ziploc bag when added to the normal up and down forces applied to it with Glen's long looping stride was simply overwhelming the elastic capacities of the spandex in the waist band of Glen's pants. Or in non technical layman's terms, the bagge (ie Crotch Pot) was slipping.
With all the grace of a gazelle, Glen snatched the falling prototype Crotch Pot from his waist band and in a single move, deposited it into a side pouch of his pack where it rode, safely comfortably and cold for the remainder of the afternoon's hike.
I never did learn if Glen actually ate said experiment of it if got buried in the nightly cat hole. Needless to say no more product testing attempts were made during the remainder of the hike.
Now please don't let this tale of bravery and or incompetence dismayed you on your own quest for the ultimate in product design. Without a bit of failure from time to time, life would be so massively boring. |
Finally at Tahoe Meadows the troupe was back to full strength. Shortly North of the meadows the TRT reaches it high point at 10,338 feet a top of Relay Peak. A layer a of snow from the previous nights blizzard, still covered the ground but was rapidly melting. Henry's much anticipated and much delayed warm front was slowly settling over the lake. The skies were blue as Robins eggs, crystal clear with nice chill in the air. It's always more fun climbing in cool air.
We found a beautiful place to camp on the shoulder of the ridge with extensive view both to the North and South. After dinner, we sat in the warmth of the sun's waning rays. It was the first time in days we've been able to stay warm without resorting to crawling into the sleeping bags, hiking hard or sheltering in the van. Finally it appeared that we maybe in store for a few days of warm Indian Summer. Henry's promised deliverance was at hand.
There has been much speculation over the limits of super ultralight hiking. How cold can you go while still maintaining some degree of both comfort and safety. In past trips, I've tended to select SUL gear based upon moderate daytime temperatures and with nighttime temperatures possibly dipping down into the 20's. Having to deal with both cold days and nights poses additional challenges.
I have to say I learned a lot watching Glen work his magic with his WickedLite load. While I may have thousands more trail miles doing multi-month hikes, he's mastered the simplicity of the experience. Though I wouldn't have traded my shelter for his. We were fortunate not to have any serious nighttime weather. For I fear his three sided affair would have provided little protection. Fortunately Brian carried a large Gossamer Gear Spin Twin that would easily have provided enough protection for two.
In the morning we awoke to cold clear skies. The crunch of footsteps on the frozen snow as we walked along only enhanced the morning hike. On this section of the TRT, the combination of high altitude and South facing slopes work together to reduce tree cover. Resulting in some of the most spectacular views of the lake so far, and excellent hiking. I've always been a sucker for high alpine hiking. While not technically above tree line, it's still an excellent section of the trail.
By the time we stopped for lunch, the storms cold and snow from the previous days was fading into distant memories. The warmth of summer had returned and we were giddy as all get out. Except for one small problem. Brian was begining to hike with a noticeable limp in his stride.
The last few weeks before the hike Brian has been spending his summer riding his motorcycle. This summer's goal is to ride the 4800 mile long across country Trans America Trail. It's a long distance primarily dirt track that winds it's way from Tennessee out to the Pacific Ocean. For more information on his trip check out his TAT Blog. I guess all that time bouncing on the bike had done a number on Brian's knee.
By lunch time we'd wound our way down out of the high country into the wooded hills north of Lake Tahoe. Most of our hiking was spent weaving this way and that with little clear idea of where we were going. Occasionally the trail would wander out to the edge of the ridge and provide us with nice views of Lake Tahoe.
For the most part, the lack of views really didn't matter. It was just good to be hiking again in warmth. Despite a limp that was growing more noticeably acute as the day progressed, Brian still was all smiles and generally well ahead of me.
We found a nice place to camp but this time no views. Still with the warm evening we were able to comfortably lounge around camp socializing without the need crawl into our bags. Since Henry was testing a new prototype tent, he felt the need to setup a tent for the evening. The rest of us content to lay in our sleeping bags and gaze at the stars filtering down through the trees.
Morning found us continuing our mission to wander all over the ridges of North Lake Tahoe. First in one direction, then another and another. Landmarks on the on the map were passed with little recognition. Our goal by now was to get down to Tahoe City in time to eat lunch at a nice restaurant.
By the time we reached our first break, Brian wasn't the only member of the troupe hiking with a limp. Somewhere Henry had also popped a knee. We weren't sure if Henry was in real pain or had merely decided to hike in sympathy with Brian. Though by now Brian's limp had progressed to the point where there were doubts about his ability to continue.
On our arrival in Tahoe City, Henry put on a hiking seminar about how real hikers cross rivers. He elected to wade across the Truckee while Brian, Glen and I take the foot bridge. I must admit that the water did look inviting.
While Henry and Brian took advantage of the picnic tables in the park to cleanup and relax a bit. Glen and I drive back up to Tahoe Meadows to retrieve the van. It's clear that Brian's not going to be hiking out of town today. So he'll take over van duty and meet us tomorrow at Barker Pass.
With all the arrangements taken care of, the four of us slipped into tourist mode for an hour to have a nice Mexican meal at a local establishment. We had a great time sitting out on the porch (no need to stink up the establishment), soaking up the sun and rehashing war stories of the last few days.
After filling our bellies and saying our goodbyes, there was nothing else to do but start the long climb back up the mountain. At 6200' Tahoe City is the lowest point on the trail. From here it's over 2000' with several ups and downs back up to where the TRT rejoins the Pacific Crest Trail.
It was a long though gentle climb up to camp. By the time we'd located a suitable site, the sun was fading fast. As we started setting up, we heard a rumble in the woods. Soon a couple of mountain bikers popped out of the trees and into the clearing. Hell bent and at high speed on their way down the mountain. It was dusk and there was several miles of bumpy trail ahead of them before hitting the road.
In the morning the remaining climb up to the PCT was quick as we'd climbed further last evening that we'd realized. Once back on familiar trail, it was only a few remaining miles until we'd reach Barker Pass where Brian was waiting.
Henry's limp was becoming more noticeable as time progressed, yet he was still able to outpace both Glen and I. It was also clear that he was going to continue the hike back to Echo Summit. Personally I was torn about continuing on to the end. The final stretch from Barker Pass to Echo Summit was 34 miles and through the spectacular Desolation Wilderness. However, to complete the hike on time, it'd have to be done less than a day and a half.
I elected to get off the trail with Brian. While Glen and Henry continued the adventure, we'd shuttle Glen's car down to the start and I'd meet them there tomorrow. At Echo Summit, Brian and I said our goodbyes and he headed back to Logan, Utah to hop back on his bike and finish the TAT.
Comments on Barker Pass to Echo Summit by Glen:
Everyone enjoyed a brief rest at Barker Pass in the SMD-mobile. Brian was heading back home from there, so it was end of the trip for him. Since Ron was sticking around for the American Long Distance Hiking Association Gathering, he agreed to meet Henry and Glen at Echo Lake. Henry and Glen set off. Glen’s worst fears were realized, that without Brian walking on one leg and Ron slowing down on the uphill's, there was now nobody to rein in Henry’s pace.
Glen struggled valiantly to keep up. Richardson Lake made a great lunch stop, with time to freshen up, air out feet, and relax in the sun. Leaving the lake, they ended up on a dirt road, and it took a little route-finding to get back on the trail. Back on the trail, the remaining two powered on, reaching Middle Velma lake by dusk. It was a beautiful spot, tons of campsites, and they selected a cozy spot among the rocks close to the lake. Henry pitched his new shelter for testing, Glen cowboy camped.
The evening was clear and cold. The next morning the climbing started in earnest, cresting ***’s Pass. It was a cold and windy day. They met one hiker who had been dropped off the night before and had been hiking straight through the night. He seemed to be having a good time, though. He had a very ambitious plan [Henry, do you remember what it was?]. There were a few other hikers on the trail. One pair in particular, two guys carrying huge packs, seemed very intrigued by the ultralight loads.
Coming up on Lake Aloha, Glen and Henry passed a cute couple, and the guy said “Hey, aren’t you Glen Van Peski?” It was Jason, who had attended a Wilderness Advanced First Aid course (he was working on his Wilderness First Responder) a number of years ago, with his new wife. Jason and Glen both guide for Wilderness Outings, but had not seen each other in years. Jason had just ordered a tent from Henry and found out that about the TRT hike. They were having a great time.
Aloha Lake was very low. Glen and Henry powered on, reaching the end of Echo Lake around 1 pm. They waited around for awhile, then finally got ahold of Ron, to find out he was waiting up at an upper parking lot. After a quick hello/goodbye, Henry and Glen pressed on to Echo Summit. Weaving in and out of homes, crossing busy roads, it wasn’t nearly as nice as Desolation Wilderness.
Glen’s car was waiting at Echo Summit, courtesy of the Frankle Shuttle Services, so Glen and Henry took back roads back to Henry’s house in Grass Valley. Henry’s wife Cynthia fixed an awesome dinner, Glen took a shower and headed on down to San Diego.
Conclusion
All in all it was a great hike and fun was had by all. Well before the end we were already discussing next years adventure. There are no bailouts possible on that trip. But at least it's a summer hike and I've got 10 months to get into shape. Watch out guys!
Ron